Backpacking

No, this time we didn't loose the bag. I took it back! - but it was a close call. Quite a dramatic story, listen:

Joakim and I were walking towards Huenca Esmeralda, a pre-Inca ruin outside Trujillo, Peru, resembling the larger Chan Chan ruins we had just visited. It was a great day, the sun was shining, and Jhoselín, a charming 10-year old Peruvian girl, had kept us company all day long, chatting constantely (good Spanish practise!). Though, we had just sent her by bus back home to Huanchaco, since all the walking had worn her out, while we wanted to do some more.

Detail of the Chan Chan ruins

Anyway, we kept walking along the main road, not listening to all the taxi drivers passing us. Some even said it was dangerous to walk, but they always say that, right?!? So we walked.

Made a right turn at the church, and continued down a quieter road. I was examining a restaurant sign (what on earth is a "Picantería"?) when it happened. A man came from behind, jumped onto Joakim's back and pulled him down to the ground. Another man, in a checkered shirt, grabbed the small backpack he was wearing (with our camera, wallet and travel journals in it) and started running. They both looked pretty old, 40 or something, and it all happened in a split second.

From that moment, I don't remember anything. I have no idea what happened after that! But somehow, don't ask me how, I managed to take it back!!! I think I kicked towards his balls, but unfortunately I missed... Next thing I know, I am standing in front of the 2 men, holding the backpack, furious!!! Joakim - on his feet again - is screaming like crazy at them.

And then... 2 other men come running from a taxi nearby. The 4 of them started shouting at each other, and eventually they all dissappear. It is not until now we notice that a lot of people are watching from the picantería. The owner asks us in, takes care of us, gives us water to drink and calls the police. I'm just so relieved: we still have all our stuff, and nobody was hurt...!

But. We still don't know whether the 2 men from the taxi came to help us - or if they came to help the robbers, but were interrupted by the restaurant people... So what would have happened if the restaurant weren't there?!

And. I don't know how I managed to react that fast. I wasn't even thinking! Maybe because I've already lost one backpack - I was determined not to let it happen again...

THIS IS NOT THE SORT OF STUFF I WANT TO WRITE IN MY TRAVEL BLOG!!! I want to write about awesome adventures, stunning nature and cool people!!! Which we, of course, encounter as well. But, these things happen, sadly enough. I just hope that we won't have any problems like these for a while now (preferably not at all).

Apart from this (and me being ill from seafood for 2 days in Cajamarca) Peru has treated us well, so far. Right now we are in Huaraz, breathing the mountain air and admiring the snowcapped peaks around us. Planning for a couple of days hiking to start with.

Inca Cola - don't miss it if going to Peru!

We have also been to Máncora, that didn't have any surf at all, and Huanchaco, that had better waves than expected (awesome surfing but freezing cold!), and Cajamarca, which is my favourite town in South America, so far. Joakim still haven't tried the local dish "Picante de cuy" - guinnea pig in hot sauce (I think I don't have to since I'm a vegetarian ) - but the Cevishe (raw fish marinated in lemon) is delicious!

Moreover, we have been the subject of people's curiousity here more than anywhere else... Especially Joakim seems to be very popular among 16-year old school girl - they all want to have their photo taken together with him, or they sneak up and take a picture in secret, hoping we won't notice! I find it quite charming, and very entertaining, though Joakim isn't that flattered...

That's all for now, folks! More photos in my gallery...
//Susanna

...at least a few of them. It really took a while to upload photos here, but I really want you guys to see a few - this might be the most beautiful place I've ever been to.

Lago Fondo Cocha, altitude 4100 meters

Me, overlooking Parque Nacional Cajas from Lago Toreador

Another awesome lake-view - first morning in Parque Nacional Cajas

Not much to add. We're leaving Ecuador in a couple of hours, are in Lojas right now waiting for the night bus that will take us over the boarder to Peru... It's so exciting, a new country! Wish us good luck!

Love
//Susanna

So, what has happened since Cotopaxi?

Well, far too much actually! My hand luggage got stolen on the way from Latacunga to Baños - with my passport, two kameras, my iPod, $100 US, my diary and lots of other stuff... So instead of enjoying hot springs and downhill mountainbiking in Baños we spent a terrible day at the police station, and then we had to go back to Quito (!) to get me a new, temporary passport. Which sucks, really, cause I'll be travelling for 7 more months, and I don't even know if the countries we are planning to visit will let me in now!!!

We never went to Baños. Didn't feel like going back the same way... Instead, we left the mountains and went down to the coast where we spent 3 days surfing in Montañita. Great place, great people! Gave us an opportunity to stop thinking about the stolen bag.

So, Ecuador turned out a bit different than expected. Above all, we spent far too much time in Quito! And we didn't see Baños or Tena, places we had been really looking forward to. Unfortunately.

But, here we are in Cuenca, the southern highlands. Originally, we were just planning to stay here one night, buy a tent and then travel down to Zamora to see some rainforest before Peru. Though, something made us change our minds, in the last minute! Before we knew what we were doing we were on our way to Parque Nacional Cajas to do some hiking...

Best decision ever! 3 days of absolute sereneness, silence and beauty. Just the lakes, the mountains, and us! It's undescribable, really. (I so want to show you guys some pictures from there, but unfortunately we don't get this computer to cooperate with my camera right now!)

Coming up next: some horse trekking around Vilcabamba, amd then we're off to Peru! And I promise - I'll try to write more frequently...!!

Cheers
//Susanna