Backpacking

The last months we have been doing nothing else than trekking!!! And I mean nothing else. I mean, we did have occasional days in between the treks for transportation, washing socks and a bit of resting, but nevertheless there were never more than one or two days in a row before we went out there again. Sounds a bit maniac, doesn't it? Parque Nacional Puyehue, Parque Nacional Nauel Huapi, Parque Nacional Los Alerces, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine... I've been to so many national parks so that I don't even remember the names of all of them! We've been sleeping more in our tent than in real beds, eating loads of dehydrated food, climbing endless amounts of peaks and watching several glaciers in sunrises.

Do I sound cynical? Well, I'm not. I seriously think this is the way to experience Patagonia! I`m completely satisfied with the fact that I have spent almost 2 months in my trekking boots, because I have indeed been able to visit some of the most magical places in the world. The sparkling snow in the intense afternoon sunlight in the upper part of Valle Francés. The astonishing volcanic peaks above the light clouds that filled up the valleys around Volcan Puyehue. The luminous turquoise waters of Rio Azul were you could go for a short, refreshing swim (5 seconds before freezing to death...). I just love all those places, and never in my life I will regret that I made an effort to get there!

The sky is huge over Parque Nacional Puyehue

However, after the Torres del Paine circuit (8 days, 140 kilometers, a lot of aches and blisters) we both felt that it unquestionably was time for something else! With grief in our hearts, we cancelled all our plans of trekking down in Tierra del Fuego. Instead, we went horseback riding, penguin watching and to the cinema in Punta Arenas to watch "King Kong" (horrible movie by the way). Wonderful liberation, I can tell you!!!

Refugio Otto Meiling in Parque Nacional Nauel Huapi

Don't misunderstand me. I love trekking, I really do. I'm gonna go trekking again and I'm still gonna love it. But right now, I've had a little bit too much...

Lago Nordenskjöld in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

Tierra del Fuego was, by the way, just as far away as you would imagine. It really is the end of the world! You start to realize how distant it is when you have to travel days on a bus, without seeing anything else than the Argentine Pampas, to get there. Almost as much daylight as in Sweden a summer's day, but a whole lot colder (something made me think about Iceland, although I haven't been there at all). Unfortunately, we we're both ill when we were in Ushuaia (with colds after all that hiking) so we didn't see as much of it as we wanted to.

End of the world feeling in Puerto Natales

And now, after travelling south for almost 5 months, we finally came to the point where we had to turn north again (Antarctica was never an option). One chapter has come to its end and a new one has begun... (poetical, ey?) Coming up is tango and soccer in Buenos Aires, beachlife and surfing in Uruguay and Carnival in Rio. Sounds nice for a change!

Lots of love to all
//Susanna

...I don't even know where to begin!!! I was sad to leave Peru, especially since we were rushing it a little bit and actually missed Arequipa completely. On the other hand, after buying a guidebook on the treks in Patagonia, we were very determined to get there as soon as possible, itching to get out and do some hiking...

We didn't feel like spending too much time in northern Chile - mostly deserts, and one of South Americas most expensive countries - but San Pedro de Atacama was defenitely worth a couple of days. Not only the driest place on Earth, the town itself was also spectacular and didn't look like anything I've ever seen before. It made me feel like I was in a middle of an old Western movie, and I just expected to see Clint Eastwood walking down the street in cowboy boots. We explored the surrounding desert with rented mountainbikes. Went to both Valle de la Luna and Quebrada del Diablo, being constantly thirsty in the hot, dry climate, and constantly fascinated by the weird, extraterrestrial landscape.

Moon Valley...

Even more fascinating was the Tatio geiser field, where we went an extremely early morning to catch the best views at sunrise. We left San Pedro at 4 o'clock in the morning, andwhen we arrived at the geisers at 6 a.m. the temperature was still below freezing. Nevertheless, we felt obliged to put on our swim suits and go for a swim in the hot springs. It wasn't too bad - until we had to get up again. At least we got some cool (!) pictures!

Me by the geiser

Then we hit the road again, heading for Argentina. Working our way down south through Salta, Cafayate, Tafi del Valle and Mendoza, we spent a week our so, indulging and enjoying the pleasures of the abundant vineyards and the excellent food (strong Italian influences here, what can I say...?). Everything in order to gain a couple of extra kilos before 2 months down in Patagonia! We've only done 2 hikes so far - around Volcán Antuco and Baños del Caulle, both on the Chilean side - and we're already looking a bit skinny...! Though, we are going back to Argentina to spend Christmas in Bariloche and try out their famous chocolate, so I think we are gonna get around that problem fairly soon.

Food - and good food too!

Patagonia... It's magical to be here, finally. Hiking around this area is a childhood dream coming true. Though, it's a demanding task to make it come true! The trekking is sometimes strenuous. We have encountered scorching deserts and blistering cold (just like Prince Charming, in Shrek II). On the last trek we got lost for 24 hours and then had to walk 4 kilometers in wet, heavy snow, slightly uphill... To reach the refugio and be able to sleep indoors was a relief, but it didn't last for long: we woke up at 4 a.m. when 4 Chilean boyscouts stumbled in, talking in loud voices, taking photos with a flash, and waking up not only us but also all the birds (several birdnests under the roof)! Then they all fell asleep really fast and started snoring like crazy while the birds were whistling and trilling the rest of the morning...

So, yes, sometimes I do ask myself: why? But on the other hand, after getting back from one hike, I can't wait til the next one! And as you probably can imagine, we're not going to Bariloche merely for the chocolate. The trekking around there is supposed to go through some of the finest scenery in the whole Lake District.

That's all for now, I wish everyone in the world a great Christmas, take care of yourself and your friends!!!

//Susanna

One of the most charming creatures we met in the Huaraz area...

I just love Peru. I don't want to leave! It's the most amazing country ever.

Nevertheless, we're heading off for Chile tomorrow, in order to get as much time as possible for hiking in Patagonia. Man, I'm looking forward to that so much!!! Our new plan is to skip Bolivia for now, do Patagonia in December and January so that we will be able to get to Rio in time for the Carnival! In that way, we can go to Bolivia after that, before flying back home from Rio in April. Might not be the shortest nor cheapest way to travel, but after all we came here to spend our money... And I mean, The Carnival - you can't really be in South America during the Carnival and not go to Rio, can you?

Beetle in Cajamarca

We just returned from four interesting days on the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu - South Americas number one tourist attraction. The trekk was defenitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience, jam-packed with astonishing Inca-sites, bewildering cloud forest passages and breathtaking views, and Machu Picchu itself is probably one of the most impressive places on Earth.

Porters at Dead Woman's Pass

What I didn't like was the concept of the Inca Trail as a tourist industry. Reflection of the day: forteen slave-driven porters to supply the eleven tourists with far too much luxury. I mean, we were trekking! I wouldn't mind carrying my own food, and I certainly don't need chairs, table cloths, four course meals and silver sugar bowls when I'm out hiking. And apparently there is an opportunity to just hire a guide and carry your own gear - but that's not something the agencies tell you about...

Second day of the trail

Having said that, it was undoubtedly a very entertaining and enjoyable experience, and I don't regret I did it. It was defenitely one of the highlights of the trip, so far! Hopefully, more highlights are coming up...

Machu Picchu and I!

Lots of love
//Susanna