//Susanna

Colourful lady in Cusco
You know you are in South America when...
* ...when you realize that about 50% of the male locals are wearing the same haircut as Maradona did in the late 80's.
* ...when you spend 8 months in countries producing the major part of the World's consumption of coffee - but hardly ever get served anything else than nasty instant coffee.
* ...when you find yourself surrounded by five men with rifles outside the supermarket, "in order to make you feel secure"...
* ...when you are constantly chased by twelve year old shoe shine boys - even though you've been wearing nothing but flipflops for the last couple of months.

Another South American character - "Up for siesta, anyone?"
* ...when "sin carne" doesn't mean "without meat", but rather "just a little bit of meat" or maybe "it's not meat, it's just ham!".
* ...when a strict and correct business woman in a bank terminates a likewise strict business conversation with an informal "Chao, gorda!" (Buy, fatso!)
* ...when it's considered self-evident that all kind of activity is shut down for siesta for a couple of hours in the middle of the day, even in areas with a subarctic climate.
* ...when a five year old kid comes up to you in the park and asks for a cigarette - for his mum.
* ...when people seem to spend more time in an armchair outside their home, out in the street, than any other place (including their bed, their kitchen or a possible workplace)
* ...when time tables is something that just exist in theory. And where else in the world do you get told that the bank opens 8 o'clock mas o menos (more or less)...?
* ...when busses, banks and internet cafés keep a temperature of roughly 12 degrees Celius, because "now that we have air condition we want it to show!!!"...

Soccer - it's like religion. Bocca Junior playing (and winning) in Buenos Aires
* ...when you have to ask certain questions (such as where, what time, where to, and how much does it cost?) to at least 7 people, before you can make out some sort of average answer, that might be somewhere near the truth.
* ...when the national sport always is soccer - it doesn't matter that the country in question haven't been anywhere close to the World Cup for the last 30 years or so.
PS. I added some pictures too, pics that really makes me feel "South America". Extremely important now that I'm at home and just have the memories... ![]()
After one month back in the real world remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Here we are! Cool reflexions, ey?
Might have been one of the coolest and most unusual things we have seen on this trip, though the French guys in our tour group did spoil the experience a little bit... They were 8 in total, the age of our parents, and they spoke French, only French and nothing but French - and they seemed deeply surprised and slightly hurt that the rest of the world didn't understand this superiour language. They obviously did understand some Spanish, but instead of using the opportunity of being in Boliva to learn some more, they actually corrected both us and the guides!!! If we said Buenos dias & Gracias, they said Bonjour & Merci. The only conversation I had with them was during the first two minutes in the jeep, when they had just frowned upon us speaking English.

Giant cactii on Isla Pescado
-We speak Spanish too! I said (in Spanish), trying to be nice.
French guy: Oh, are you from Spain, how nice!
Me: No, no, we are from Sweden.
French guy: ...?
Me: In Scandinavia!
French guy: No, I don't know that part of Spain. But our daughter is studying in Palermo.
(Palermo?!? Isn't that in Italy?)
End of conversation... Lucky for us, we also had the supernice couple Sean and Ama, from Canada and Holland respectively, in our tour group. Thank you guys, you saved us from going crazy!
Enough of the salty stuff now, Bolivia has a lot more to offer. Both Santa Cruz and Sucre are two really nice cities, though the roads between the two aren't as nice... Pretty much the same story as last time, 3 days stuck in mud, no food, no water.
Also, we have just spent 3 days around Lago Titicaca, in Copacabana and on Isla del Sol (we thought about doing a daytrip to Puno i Peru too, but in the end we decided against it). A truly beautiful and relaxing place, though I spent most of the time in bed due to some evil stomach disease or maybe just the market food? I don't know, but what I do know is that our 8 month South America trip is coming to an end - only 2 weeks left today! And after all the bad roads and stomaches in this country, we can't help feeling a need for Brazilian beaches and fruity fruitdrinks... So tomorrow we areflying (no more Bolivian busses) back to Santa Cruz, and from there it is straight way to Brazil. We'll need that tan when we get back to Sweden in April!

Cute little llama chewing coca leaves, like the rest of the Bolivians
Love to all
//Susanna
¿Señor, hay un poco sal? remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Let's take it from the beginning: the first night wasn't any worse than an ordinary night on an ordinary night bus. Though, we woke up the next morning being stuck in mud - and a lot of mud. We manage to get out of it with help from a tractor, several times, and this was going on over and over again the whole day. But at least we were moving forwards... In the afternoon we were all by a sudden in a caravan of 7 busses, of which the first ones had been travelling three days already - it didn't seem too promising!
We stopped for the night close to the only potable water available for miles and miles. Nobody could or wanted to answer any questions about what was going on, but there was no sign of moving on before the next day, so we just put up our tent on the road (the others had to sleep in the bus).
Next morning everybody seemed hopeful again. We started moving again, through the mud with help from the tractors. Today we were even allowed to drive on the "real" road, that is generally not used, because the owner of the road don't want to expose it to wear. It didn't help for long, though, because around noon we reached a river, 25 meters of running water, across the whole road... The busses didn't have a chance to cross whatsoever. Some people chose to stay by the busses, but we were 50 people that crossed the river (it was "only" waist-high in some places) with our luggage, and continued by foot. Just us, the savannah, the baking sun and 25 kg on the back.
After 2 terrible kilometers we reach a military base, where we got som rest and manage to get a lift with a military truck - but only 6 kilometers to the Bolivian border, since it would have been an official war declaration to cross the border with a military vehicle. There was nothing else to do but continue walking, on a dusty dry (?) road in the merciless afternoon sun. Nobody knew just how far, or where we were actually going, and things started to feel a bit too hopeless.
However, after 6 kilometers more we reached two houses, where we were able to by some food and drinks (though we didn't have any Bolivian money). There was no phone, but someone had went by motorcycle to the next village to get help. We spent the night around the campfire (actually, it was just a candlelight), chatting with the other passengers and drinking beer. Pretty nice, really.
Around 10 p.m. or so we suddenly heard the sound of an engine. A truck was coming to rescue us! After a bit of chaos and dealing about money, we were all standing on the back of the truck, under the sky full of stars... And this is how we spent all night: standing up, 50 people on a small pick-up truck, without sleeping anything (except for short moments, leaning our heads on a bag or on another passenger). After 8 horrible hours we reached Villamonte, the first larger village after the Bolivian border. The morning bus to Santa Cruz was filled up quickly by 50 muddy passengers - so we finally made it!!!
After this last spectacular adventure everything else we did in Paraguay seems... uninteresting, somehow. But we did spend 2 weeks there, and they were 2 good weeks, with trips to the Brazilian (?) rainforest, the Jesuit missions, and a 5-day boat trip up Rio Paraguay on a cargo boat, full of bananas, bags of flour and little ladies. It might have been the first country in South America where we actually got to know the locals, much thanks to the fact that there aren't any tourists there, which makes the people much more open and friendly to gringos. It felt more real, unaffected and authentic than any other country we've been to so far. And the sunsets over Rio Paraguay might have been some of the most beautiful ones I've ever seen...
Didn't manage to insert pictures this time, but check my photo album if you want to!
Love to all
//Susanna
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House with a view - Punta del Diablo
We came with the catamaran from Buenos Aires to small Carmelo, where we the traffic constituted of nothing else than horsedrawn carts, mopeds or shiny, wellkept cars from the 50's or earlier. The pizza was good and cheap, the beer was ice-cold, and in the evening we had picnic down at the canal, watching the locals hanging out at the rowing club. Coming from Buenos Aires, which is a cool place but huge, Carmelo had that super-cozy feeling that we were looking for.

Fruit store in Montevideo - yes, we went there too.
Even more cozy, I dare to say, was Colonia del Sacramento, our next stop along the Uruguay coast. It's an old smuggler´s port, with irregular, cobbled-stone streets and it's absolutely charming! Since we realized that it was Valentine´s day (we´re usually not into that sort of stuff) we treated ourselves to one of the super-funky restaurants that you can find all over the town. At this one, we actually got to sit in one of the 50's cars, with the interior replaced with chairs and table. Exept for the awesome food, good wine and cool atmosphere, we got loads of attention from people passing by, wanting to take our picture etc. A lot of fun!

This is the car, from the outside
However, most of the time in Uruguay we spent on or close to the beach, in lovely little Punta del Diablo. It's not a lot more but a small, colourful fishing village, but recently it has started to attract surfers and other beachbums, and the fishermen have added "renting cabañas" to their business. But it's not touristic (yet) and it has got a good vibe. We tried to surf one day, but most of the time we just spent reading, swimming in the waves, horseback riding over the dunes, and having ridiculously good fish for dinner. There were a few party opportunities, but most of all we just wanted to relax - that's what you do in Uruguay.

Beachlife - Punta del Diablo
I could easily have spent more time in Uruguay, but unfortunatelly we didn't have the time. After 11 days we jumped on a bus taking us all the way up to Rio de Janeiro in Brazil (that's 32 hours on a bus, no piece of cake, I tell you!) for the carnival. And it's The Carnival. Even though everyone we met before told us that there are other carnivals in Brazil that are cheaper, safer and more fun, we still wanted to go to Rio. Because that's what you have heard of since you were a kid, isn't it?! It's world famous, The Carnival in Rio!!! And now, looking back, we don't regret it. It is splendid! Colours, caipirinhas, and samba on the street. Everyone is just happy, 24 hours of endless joy and party (unfortunately we don't have too many pics from the carnival because we didn't want to bring the camera unless we felt it was safe). It was almost surreal; sleaping all day, drifting down to the beach for an hour or so, back to the hostel for showers and a few beers, and then it all started again, partying all night uttil sunrise over the beautiful Ipanema and Cobacabana. And this was going on for almost a week - and we have hardly been partying at all during our travels!! (Exept Christmas, New Year's and that sort of stuff) I totally enjoyed it though. Despite the burdensome hangover that tortured us for several days afterwards...
Carnival...
We have also seen the Iguazú Falls, both from the Argentine and the Brazilian side. Very, very impressive. I mean, I was actually enjoying looking at a waterfall for two days! It's huge, it's remarkable, it's dramatic and extraordinary - there's just no end to all the synonyms... If you have a chance, go there!

Iguazú falls - Argentine side.
And go to Uruguay, too.
Right now we are in Parguay, which seems to be the least visited of all the countries in South America. Everyone is really friendly, but slightly surprised to see tourists. Makes travelling a lot more interesting, and a bit harder... Tomorrow, we are going by boat up the river Rio Paraguay towards the Brazilian rainforest. A five day trip to the middle of nowhere, I suspect. More about that later!
Lots of love to all
//Susanna
Uruguay, carnival and waterfalls remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Do I sound cynical? Well, I'm not. I seriously think this is the way to experience Patagonia! I`m completely satisfied with the fact that I have spent almost 2 months in my trekking boots, because I have indeed been able to visit some of the most magical places in the world. The sparkling snow in the intense afternoon sunlight in the upper part of Valle Francés. The astonishing volcanic peaks above the light clouds that filled up the valleys around Volcan Puyehue. The luminous turquoise waters of Rio Azul were you could go for a short, refreshing swim (5 seconds before freezing to death...). I just love all those places, and never in my life I will regret that I made an effort to get there!
The sky is huge over Parque Nacional Puyehue
However, after the Torres del Paine circuit (8 days, 140 kilometers, a lot of aches and blisters) we both felt that it unquestionably was time for something else! With grief in our hearts, we cancelled all our plans of trekking down in Tierra del Fuego. Instead, we went horseback riding, penguin watching and to the cinema in Punta Arenas to watch "King Kong" (horrible movie by the way). Wonderful liberation, I can tell you!!!
Refugio Otto Meiling in Parque Nacional Nauel Huapi
Don't misunderstand me. I love trekking, I really do. I'm gonna go trekking again and I'm still gonna love it. But right now, I've had a little bit too much...
Lago Nordenskjöld in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine
Tierra del Fuego was, by the way, just as far away as you would imagine. It really is the end of the world! You start to realize how distant it is when you have to travel days on a bus, without seeing anything else than the Argentine Pampas, to get there. Almost as much daylight as in Sweden a summer's day, but a whole lot colder (something made me think about Iceland, although I haven't been there at all). Unfortunately, we we're both ill when we were in Ushuaia (with colds after all that hiking) so we didn't see as much of it as we wanted to.
End of the world feeling in Puerto Natales
And now, after travelling south for almost 5 months, we finally came to the point where we had to turn north again (Antarctica was never an option). One chapter has come to its end and a new one has begun... (poetical, ey?) Coming up is tango and soccer in Buenos Aires, beachlife and surfing in Uruguay and Carnival in Rio. Sounds nice for a change!
Lots of love to all
//Susanna
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]]>We didn't feel like spending too much time in northern Chile - mostly deserts, and one of South Americas most expensive countries - but San Pedro de Atacama was defenitely worth a couple of days. Not only the driest place on Earth, the town itself was also spectacular and didn't look like anything I've ever seen before. It made me feel like I was in a middle of an old Western movie, and I just expected to see Clint Eastwood walking down the street in cowboy boots. We explored the surrounding desert with rented mountainbikes. Went to both Valle de la Luna and Quebrada del Diablo, being constantly thirsty in the hot, dry climate, and constantly fascinated by the weird, extraterrestrial landscape.

Moon Valley...
Even more fascinating was the Tatio geiser field, where we went an extremely early morning to catch the best views at sunrise. We left San Pedro at 4 o'clock in the morning, andwhen we arrived at the geisers at 6 a.m. the temperature was still below freezing. Nevertheless, we felt obliged to put on our swim suits and go for a swim in the hot springs. It wasn't too bad - until we had to get up again.
At least we got some cool (!) pictures!

Me by the geiser
Then we hit the road again, heading for Argentina. Working our way down south through Salta, Cafayate, Tafi del Valle and Mendoza, we spent a week our so, indulging and enjoying the pleasures of the abundant vineyards and the excellent food (strong Italian influences here, what can I say...?). Everything in order to gain a couple of extra kilos before 2 months down in Patagonia! We've only done 2 hikes so far - around Volcán Antuco and Baños del Caulle, both on the Chilean side - and we're already looking a bit skinny...! Though, we are going back to Argentina to spend Christmas in Bariloche and try out their famous chocolate, so I think we are gonna get around that problem fairly soon. ![]()

Food - and good food too!
Patagonia... It's magical to be here, finally. Hiking around this area is a childhood dream coming true. Though, it's a demanding task to make it come true! The trekking is sometimes strenuous. We have encountered scorching deserts and blistering cold (just like Prince Charming, in Shrek II). On the last trek we got lost for 24 hours and then had to walk 4 kilometers in wet, heavy snow, slightly uphill... To reach the refugio and be able to sleep indoors was a relief, but it didn't last for long: we woke up at 4 a.m. when 4 Chilean boyscouts stumbled in, talking in loud voices, taking photos with a flash, and waking up not only us but also all the birds (several birdnests under the roof)! Then they all fell asleep really fast and started snoring like crazy while the birds were whistling and trilling the rest of the morning...
So, yes, sometimes I do ask myself: why? But on the other hand, after getting back from one hike, I can't wait til the next one! And as you probably can imagine, we're not going to Bariloche merely for the chocolate. The trekking around there is supposed to go through some of the finest scenery in the whole Lake District.
That's all for now, I wish everyone in the world a great Christmas, take care of yourself and your friends!!!
//Susanna
Lost in the Patagonian Andes remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>I just love Peru. I don't want to leave! It's the most amazing country ever.
Nevertheless, we're heading off for Chile tomorrow, in order to get as much time as possible for hiking in Patagonia. Man, I'm looking forward to that so much!!! Our new plan is to skip Bolivia for now, do Patagonia in December and January so that we will be able to get to Rio in time for the Carnival! In that way, we can go to Bolivia after that, before flying back home from Rio in April. Might not be the shortest nor cheapest way to travel, but after all we came here to spend our money...
And I mean, The Carnival - you can't really be in South America during the Carnival and not go to Rio, can you?
Beetle in Cajamarca
We just returned from four interesting days on the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu - South Americas number one tourist attraction. The trekk was defenitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience, jam-packed with astonishing Inca-sites, bewildering cloud forest passages and breathtaking views, and Machu Picchu itself is probably one of the most impressive places on Earth.
Porters at Dead Woman's Pass
What I didn't like was the concept of the Inca Trail as a tourist industry. Reflection of the day: forteen slave-driven porters to supply the eleven tourists with far too much luxury. I mean, we were trekking! I wouldn't mind carrying my own food, and I certainly don't need chairs, table cloths, four course meals and silver sugar bowls when I'm out hiking. And apparently there is an opportunity to just hire a guide and carry your own gear - but that's not something the agencies tell you about...
Second day of the trail
Having said that, it was undoubtedly a very entertaining and enjoyable experience, and I don't regret I did it. It was defenitely one of the highlights of the trip, so far! Hopefully, more highlights are coming up...
Machu Picchu and I!
Lots of love
//Susanna
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]]>Joakim and I were walking towards Huenca Esmeralda, a pre-Inca ruin outside Trujillo, Peru, resembling the larger Chan Chan ruins we had just visited. It was a great day, the sun was shining, and Jhoselín, a charming 10-year old Peruvian girl, had kept us company all day long, chatting constantely (good Spanish practise!). Though, we had just sent her by bus back home to Huanchaco, since all the walking had worn her out, while we wanted to do some more.
Detail of the Chan Chan ruins
Anyway, we kept walking along the main road, not listening to all the taxi drivers passing us. Some even said it was dangerous to walk, but they always say that, right?!? So we walked.
Made a right turn at the church, and continued down a quieter road. I was examining a restaurant sign (what on earth is a "Picantería"?) when it happened. A man came from behind, jumped onto Joakim's back and pulled him down to the ground. Another man, in a checkered shirt, grabbed the small backpack he was wearing (with our camera, wallet and travel journals in it) and started running. They both looked pretty old, 40 or something, and it all happened in a split second.
From that moment, I don't remember anything. I have no idea what happened after that! But somehow, don't ask me how, I managed to take it back!!! I think I kicked towards his balls, but unfortunately I missed... Next thing I know, I am standing in front of the 2 men, holding the backpack, furious!!! Joakim - on his feet again - is screaming like crazy at them.
And then... 2 other men come running from a taxi nearby. The 4 of them started shouting at each other, and eventually they all dissappear. It is not until now we notice that a lot of people are watching from the picantería. The owner asks us in, takes care of us, gives us water to drink and calls the police. I'm just so relieved: we still have all our stuff, and nobody was hurt...!
But. We still don't know whether the 2 men from the taxi came to help us - or if they came to help the robbers, but were interrupted by the restaurant people... So what would have happened if the restaurant weren't there?!
And. I don't know how I managed to react that fast. I wasn't even thinking! Maybe because I've already lost one backpack - I was determined not to let it happen again...
THIS IS NOT THE SORT OF STUFF I WANT TO WRITE IN MY TRAVEL BLOG!!! I want to write about awesome adventures, stunning nature and cool people!!! Which we, of course, encounter as well. But, these things happen, sadly enough. I just hope that we won't have any problems like these for a while now (preferably not at all).
Apart from this (and me being ill from seafood for 2 days in Cajamarca) Peru has treated us well, so far. Right now we are in Huaraz, breathing the mountain air and admiring the snowcapped peaks around us. Planning for a couple of days hiking to start with.
Inca Cola - don't miss it if going to Peru!
We have also been to Máncora, that didn't have any surf at all, and Huanchaco, that had better waves than expected (awesome surfing but freezing cold!), and Cajamarca, which is my favourite town in South America, so far. Joakim still haven't tried the local dish "Picante de cuy" - guinnea pig in hot sauce (I think I don't have to since I'm a vegetarian
) - but the Cevishe (raw fish marinated in lemon) is delicious!
Moreover, we have been the subject of people's curiousity here more than anywhere else... Especially Joakim seems to be very popular among 16-year old school girl - they all want to have their photo taken together with him, or they sneak up and take a picture in secret, hoping we won't notice! I find it quite charming, and very entertaining, though Joakim isn't that flattered... ![]()
That's all for now, folks! More photos in my gallery...
//Susanna
Not again... remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Lago Fondo Cocha, altitude 4100 meters

Me, overlooking Parque Nacional Cajas from Lago Toreador

Another awesome lake-view - first morning in Parque Nacional Cajas
Not much to add. We're leaving Ecuador in a couple of hours, are in Lojas right now waiting for the night bus that will take us over the boarder to Peru... It's so exciting, a new country! Wish us good luck!
Love
//Susanna
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]]>Well, far too much actually! My hand luggage got stolen on the way from Latacunga to Baños - with my passport, two kameras, my iPod, $100 US, my diary and lots of other stuff... So instead of enjoying hot springs and downhill mountainbiking in Baños we spent a terrible day at the police station, and then we had to go back to Quito (!) to get me a new, temporary passport. Which sucks, really, cause I'll be travelling for 7 more months, and I don't even know if the countries we are planning to visit will let me in now!!! ![]()
We never went to Baños. Didn't feel like going back the same way... Instead, we left the mountains and went down to the coast where we spent 3 days surfing in Montañita. Great place, great people! Gave us an opportunity to stop thinking about the stolen bag.
So, Ecuador turned out a bit different than expected. Above all, we spent far too much time in Quito! And we didn't see Baños or Tena, places we had been really looking forward to. Unfortunately.
But, here we are in Cuenca, the southern highlands. Originally, we were just planning to stay here one night, buy a tent and then travel down to Zamora to see some rainforest before Peru. Though, something made us change our minds, in the last minute! Before we knew what we were doing we were on our way to Parque Nacional Cajas to do some hiking...
Best decision ever! 3 days of absolute sereneness, silence and beauty. Just the lakes, the mountains, and us! It's undescribable, really. (I so want to show you guys some pictures from there, but unfortunately we don't get this computer to cooperate with my camera right now!)
Coming up next: some horse trekking around Vilcabamba, amd then we're off to Peru! And I promise - I'll try to write more frequently...!!
Cheers
//Susanna
Far too much time in Quito... remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>We managed to arrive in Quito without any problems with the altitude (after all, not all people do). We took it easy, spent more than a week above 2500 meters, to adjust properly, before we went down south to experience some real mountains.
Ice axe, crampons and fleece underwear. We were going to climb Cotopaxi, a snowcovered volcano and Ecuadors second highest mountain... We started from the climber's refugio at 4800 meters, our guide woke us up at midnight to do the climb to the top, 5897 meters above sealevel...
Cotopaxi
My god, I have no idea why I even tried to do it! I mean, I was already feeling the altitude sickness at that height! And also, I don't like being cold!!! I like snow when it can be used for snowboarding, and that's about it. It might have been the simple fact that I had already paid for the climb. And, oh well, I tend to be a bit stubborn from time to time...
Climbing practice on the glacier. This is before I got ill...
First I felt fine. Made it up to the glacier entrance (5000 meters) and all. Dark, cold and most of all weird, to be... on top of the world! Because that is what it felt like. I guess that feeling kept me going. So we put on our crampons and started climbing the glacier. It's goddamn beautiful! White and clean and quiet, and huge. Thunderstorms at the horizon, a bit of snowfall where we were but the sky sparkling with stars still.
But what happened? After 200 meters or so I started feeling dizzy again. Rested for a while, kept on going... and then I puked on the glacier. And worst of all - the only thing I could think about was how nice and white and clean it was before that, and how I destroyed it all... I felt like an environmental disaster!!!
So, we had to go down again. I felt really really bad because Joakim (my boyfriend) had to go down too, and he felt just fine. But lucky for me, it turns out that all the groups have to go down, because the weather was getting worse. So it wasn't completely my fault that we didn't make it...
Down in Latacunga now, I feel fine. Though, I don't know if I'm up for any more mountains, at least not for a while...
//Susanna
(More Ecuadorian pics in my photo gallery!)
Cotopaxi and altitude sickness remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Though, here are a few. Check out my Venezuelan photo gallery fore more!
Cheers
//Susanna
Man at the morning market in Caripe
Gulliver - Santa Fe
Green bus at Playa Colorada
Two stupid dogs in the small indian village La Tierra Blanca. One of them (the black & white one) stole a chicken from us and is therefore known as Chicken Eater.
The last house in the indian village Las Bonitas
Well, they kept playing samba music pretty much all of the time at the sleepy little bar on Playa Pui Puy. So why not? Let's dance!
Some pics from Venezuela remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Though, Venezuela is in fact the only Caribbean country in our itinerary. Obviously, beaches, Calypso music and fruity coctails have to be a large part of it!
That´s why we went to Playa Pui Puy. According to Lonely Planet, Playa Pui Puy is "almost as beautiful as Playa Medina". Well, I haven´t been to Playa Medina but it must be goddamn beautiful! Because Playa Pui Puy is truly stunning. Crescent-shaped and postcard-perfect, and completely hidden from the rest of the world(it was actually a pain to get there). Big waves - though not big enough for surfing (as the disappointed surfer who had come all the way from Puerto la Cruz found out).
A few houses in the eastern corner of the beach. A bar, selling beer, snacks and water (occasionally) and playing loud salsa music (continuously). A small bodega selling other stuff (mostly canned tuna and cigarettes). And the brightly-painted posada with the huge veranda where we were staying. Since there weren´t any other guests, we had the veranda to ourselves most of the time. A few meters only from the sea - and it was perfect to watch the sunset from!
When we first got there, we panicked. "There´s nothing to do here! We are going to get bored!!!". You see, we were really keen to DO stuff - and it wasnt´t even possible to hire a surfboard!
But after a few hours we calmed down and exhaled. ...and 3 days passed by, just like that! To swim in the waves, to make small expeditions in the surroundings, to read on the veranda, to "have conversations" with the locals (i.e. to ask questions in poor Spanish and not understand the answer) - activities sufficient to keep us busy. And more than anything, enjoying the peacefulness, and the beach with its beauty... very relaxing.
Arrived in Santa Fe yesterday - it took us five different vehicles to get there from Pui Puy. The beach here is quite touristic but there are no tourists really, and the village is just as sleepy as they all seem to be. Still, various activities are available (such as kayaking and snorkeling) and we´re finally able to Do stuff! ![]()
Also, for the first time in Venezuela, we´ve actually been able to order coctails on a Carribean beach (which was sort of the whole purpose with this part of the trip...). Last night, the electricity was off (seems to happen quite frequently here) so the beach was in complete darkness, except from the lightning in the sky and a couple of candles at the tiny but delightful beachfront restaurant. Though, food was available, and so were the coctails... Yummy!
Today, we´ve spent most of the time in the water, snorkelling with colourful fish in all sorts of shapes and sizes. The islands in Mochima National Park are full of pretty little beaches to spend the day on and surrounded by coral reefs to explore with the snorkelling gear. So, here we are. Relaxing.
And Angel Falls? Yeah, it was pretty cool. But that´s a whole different story. I might tell it some other time.
In a few days, we´re off to Ecuador!!!
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]]>My mind is totally relaxed, and more than anything I just feel like the luckiest person in the world! We are able to be here, to see and experience this part of the world, to do whatever we want, all the time. Things just happen - nothing needs to be planned...
Venezuela. Hot like crazy when we arrived. People speaking Spanish really fast, everywhere. Though, we tried to look as streetsmart as possible, and indeed we managed to get from the airport, by bus and subway, into Caracas, without getting robbed or anything! Which was actually well done, at least according to what we've heard about that city - apparently it is the 4th most dangerous city in the world! Couldn´t get out of there too fast...
Now we are staying at a laidback hostel/lodge/Spanish-school at Playa Colorada, 6 hours east of Caracas. Couldn´t feel much better than this actually! We sleep in our hammocks on a large veranda with an ocean view. We´re surrounded by banana leaves and other greenery, and the beach framed with coconut trees is just 100 meters away.
People here are superfriendly and welcoming, and everything is just tranquilo and manaña all the time. A perfect first week of a very, very long vaccation...
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]]>It's my last day at work today!!!
Crazy.
My bosses took me out for lunch, fancy sushi restaurant, yummy!
They kept on telling me how much they appreciate what I've done, how efficient and well-organized they think I am, how much they are going to miss me, etc. etc. A bit of exaggeration maybe but nvertheless, the greatfulness and tribute felt good!
Best of all - I can leave work early today!
So I'm just going to clean out my desk and return my borrowed cell phone, and the laptop of course... And then I'm off!
A week from now, I'm in Venezuela somewhere...
Wednesday (August 31st)
This is it. The train to Copenhagen Airport leaves in less than 3 hours. The backpacks are packed (!), almost bursting, we have said our farewells, and now we're beginning to feel nervous.
Goodbye, Sweden! Goodbye, friends and family... And hello, World! Hello, adventure! Hello, heavy backpack, aching back and feet... But most of all: Hello, South America, with all your stunning nature and exciting culture!
There's no going back now...
//Susanna
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]]>Bought malaria pills yesterday. Check. Have bought a hammock. Check. Have booked a hostel for our first night in Caracas. Check.
But even though my mind is already travelling, my body is still in Sweden. I took it (i.e. my body) out for a run the other day. For once, the rain wasn't pouring down - it was actually quite nice weather and extraordinarily good light for photographing, so a sudden idea made me bring my camera with me on the run... I'm not sure how much exercise I actually got, but it was great fun!!!
Horse closeup
People stared at me when I was getting intrusive with animals of varying sizes, but what the heck...
Bumblebees
It was a useful experience, this photo run. Haven't really relized how beautiful my everyday environment is! Almost makes me wonder why I want to travel so far away... But I want to travel! I do! I didn't say I don't want to! I'm super excited about going to South America - we have been planning this trip for almost a year now. I only mean that it all made me appreciate what I've got here, right now... I'm a very wise woman ![]()
Horses and sunset
Even though I think a lot about the journey, I can't really imagine what it will be like. I mean, I'm perfectly able to conceptulize the airport, the flight, the arrival in Caracas, maybe even the first few days, being jetlagged and fascinated at the same time. But then what?!?! ...no matter how hard I concentrate, I just don't get any pictures in my head! Seven months of travelling, seven months of holiday, adventure and leisure - it's just impossible to grasp!!!
Red plant
I suppose I just have to be satisfied with the pictures I have from my run, and enjoy the present time, right now. Still 8 more days to work...
//Susanna
Eyes shining with expectation remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Usually, the Swedish summer doesn't get started until early August - Midsummer is always freezing, despite great expectations every year.
(For those who don't know: Midsummer is Sweden's most celebrated holiday, end of June, lots of schnaps, herring and strawberries, and heathen rites such as dancing around a wooden pole covered with leaves and flowers in order to honour the Earth's fertility, etc. etc.)
Usually, the best we can hope for is a couple of warm days in August, to spend on the beach before school starts again. Sometimes, May is pretty warm too, but those years makes us even more dissapointed when Midsummer comes and it's almost snowing...
THOUGH...! This year, the warm wheather did a rush start in early June. Midsummer was the hottest ever, and we spent the whole day on the beach. It looked really promising actually, and everone was planning for long, relaxing days along the Swedish coast...
Cooling off in the lake by my sister's house
I spent a weekend in Stockholm, visiting my family. The heat was almost unbearable, we couldn't do much but lying around in the shade. The same situation the week before, on Roskilde Rock Festival in Denmark... We were constanly drinking water, sweating like cows (???), inhaling dust. (Though we saw some really awesome concerts down there, so the heat didn't bother us that much. Also, the wheather was far better than last year, when the whole Roskilde Festival area turned into a mud field thanks to uninterrupted raining...)

My friend Martin at Roskilde Festival
And now. Suddenly. It's freezing cold again, constantly raining!!!Pretty much like a usual Swedish summer. Strangely enough, it's even more depressing to work now!
An ordinary Swedish summer...
Am I being excessively negative? Yes, probably. But that's me, I'm Swedish - we talk about the weather all the time!!! And you know what? We were complaining about the heat in June as well... And we really shouldn't, because the Swedish summer is BEAUUUTIFUL!!! Just take a look at the picture below.
This is what the Swedish summer looks like!!!
Also, I have South America to look forward to. Pretty soon, I will be stationed on a white beach in Venezuela, doing absolutely nothing (which is - to be honest - entertaining for a day or so... But there's plenty of more adventurous stuff to do as well!).
Only four weeks left at work!!! Speaking of which, maybe I should work for a bit now...
Cheers // Susanna
Thoughts about climate remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>Anyway, yesterday I had all my vaccinations for the trip. Yellow fever and polio, so it wasn't all that bad. And I was really good to, didn't faint or anything!
Later today, I will take the train to Stockholm to visit my sister and her newborn baby girl Alissa! So exciting, she's 12 days old today and apparently she looks like my grandmother![]()
Unfortunately, this visit will also be a sad goodbye since it's probably my last chance to see my sister and her kids before I leave for South America... We live so far apart, pretty weird actually since Sweden isn't all that big! But I work fulltime and she has an newborn baby, and... well, there is simply not enough time. ![]()
Cheers, take care
//Susanna
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Swedish summer
Right now I'm still at work
in Sweden, watching the awesome Swedish summer passing by outside my window... But at least I had four great days at the Roskilde festival in Denmark. Lots of sunshine and all my favourite bands were playing... wicked! ![]()
//Susanna
Still in Sweden remains copyright of the author snatterand, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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